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Well, let´s unload some experience and MY point of view about something that has SO many schools of "best practice". I hope you find some usefulness in my story about:


Choice of boots, socks and practical tips for your feet in hiking situations!

Boots
Take a moment to REALLY consider the purpose for you buying a pair of boots.
Y? Well, it gets you focused on what will matter when you choose a pair of boots. Is nice looks, practicality or budget your main issue? Because even though the most expensive boots might not always fit/be the best choice for everyone – a really good pair of boots that will last and protect your feet normally costs more than you pay for an ordinary pair of shoes – and then some.

Take a moment to look at what details might be important to YOU and your purpose of buying a pair of boots.

Details – in no particular order
Shape
Y? Some shoes are more square in their shape so they can be used on some cross-country skies i.e. Lundhags “Husky skies”. Models like The Swedish Armed Forces standard boot, the “M90 or M90 winter” also have a reinforced toe-protection that makes the toe-part look slightly bigger – but it will protect your wiggly-toes from blund force and heavy weight damage. For me, those models very often have a little too much space around the toes for longer walks/treks – since it allows the foot/toes to move around more. Read: creating friction. This is countered by some brands/models having a slightly more narrow toe-bit – often seen on brands like Meindl.

My story: When doing the International Four Days Marches Nijmegen - more or less everyone gets blisters one way or another.  Many of us have used the slightly more narrow toe-space – giving some of us a just blister on the outside of our pinky-toe. BUT, compared to that the average person considers 3-4 blisters a GOOD result (compared to those that loose most of their soles on their feet) – I would take that over being able to wiggle your toes.

Leather/Breathable material
Y? If you are doing light trekking and not plowing through mud, water-crossings etc. A light, breathable material like GoreTex might be better – it even has water protection abilities. But if you are going through mud, and often crossing/walking in water – a proper full leather boot is what you are looking for. Personally I find nubuck/suade boots a compromise that is more intended to look good than being practical – because they require a higher level of maintenance and harder to keep waterproof (if yet fully possible).

The padding to be or not to be
Y? Well, padding is something that makes a modern boot somewhat of technical – and sometimes harder to choose. Because even though the fact that padding (in addition to socks) makes the boot more comfortable, it also keeps your boots “wet” longer due to more water contained in the padding.
 If you are doing some heavy duty trekking where you know that you will be doing water-crossings up to your knees (and higher) – remember that the silt (especially in muddy slow-flowing rivers) gets into your shoe and clogs materials like GoreTex – making it non-breathable. So for treks through

My story: While crossing the central kalimantan-plateau of Borneo/Indonesia on foot - I did several waist-deep crossings - often with very muddy water. Because I got this  advice that I just wrote about before my trip – I bought boots without any GoreTex-membrane, but with padding (the model was actually the Meindl Borneo(!) Pro). This meant that I did not need to worry about any specific lining to clog up. And – to my surprise – the padding actually dried quite quick (or did not bother me as much when wet as I thought). But then, that model is leather padded even on the inside (not textile) – and the MFS®-foam used for padding still did it´s work. The silt inside the boot still needed to be washed away/cleaned from time to time though – but they worked several miles after that.


Height of the shaft
Y? One main characteristic of a shoe becoming a boot is that the shaft of the boot (have not heard any other word for it in English) gets higher and enables both protection/support for your foot – but also protects from lower water-/bog crossings.

I would say that there are low, medium and high shafts.

Low: More for the afternoon hiker – and often more of a variant to a sturdy walking/hiking-shoe. These are also better if you are working with boots and have desk job-time in periods of time i.e staff military.

Medium: This is the main segment for most people. The medium height shaft (climbing 5-10cm up your front shin) gives you protection and above all stabilization when walking rough terrain – especially with weight on your back. It not only prevents you from twisting your ancle,. It supports your heel in taking the load of some of the strenuous lifting – especially going uphill. When you walk on flat surfaces it is actually less strenuous on your feet if you don´t tie the laces all the way up – but let it stop at the fold where you leg meets your foot. (just take an extra lap around your foot with the extra lace-length)

High: These might be looking more hardcore (climbing 10-20cm up your front shin – higher than that, and you are getting into fashion-model versions. ;) ) – but for most it is really overdoing it if you are not going to trek through areas with unsuspecting bogs, wet-areas etc. where you need the extra height to prevent water from slipping in. Of course it does physically protect you a bit higher from thorns and everything else that might prick or graze your skin – but it really does not give that much more support than the medium sized ones. If you need that protection, I would suggest to learn to know where you walk a little better.

Protective rubber-rim just above the sole
Y? Well, hiking through rocky or snowy areas – the first 2-3cm around the boot get worn quickly by hitting rocks – but also ice and snowbrims that might hide under softer snow. So for those that will walk a rough or close to off the track might actually have good use for this in terms of lengthen the usage-time of the boot. Remember however that these rims normally are of some kind of rubber. So if not treated with i.e. silicone-oil and if stored very warm/dry – they can wither and get cracks in them. This can however be temporarily be fixed with “LiquiSole” or eqvivilent – but more about that later.

Vibram® soles
Y? I try and not get fixed on manufacturers – but a good pointer that the sole is of good quality, is if it is a genuine Vibram-sole. The abuse I´ve put mine through and the low wear/tear they have shown is remarkable. I wear the rest of the boot out long before any sole. Not a showstopper, but just as a good pointer.


So, what is MY choice? Well, I still chose the “Meindl Island MFS Active” (available in lady-version as well.)
Y? Solid leather gives me a “easy maintenance”. Also, I have no planned activity where the GoreTex-membrane might get ruined – and the padding is nice and feels ok even under longer wet periods of rain and clear water crossings. The medium height is perfect for my uses and gives a good support as well as protection against rocks and water – with some extra support from the rubber-rim around the first/lower part of the boot. In addition, the support/service that I have experienced from Meindl have been extraordinary. The shop where I bought them shipped my new boots to Austria (closest “pro-shop”) with courier to have a minute loose sole fixed professionally. This for a gap of 1x5mm after walking the boots 20km the first weekend on tarmac. They never bothered me again!

IN the end - you should really try a number pairs of boots in the shop before deciding. Wear on both feet for at least 5-10mins. Most serious shops also have a artificial "small hill" where you can try and get a feel to walk uphill in them.

So, now you bought the shoes you are going to depend your future hiking experiences on. However, do not forget to keep your boots in shape!

• Solid leather rubbing with wax/oils (I prefer NikWax). Keep away from ordinary shoe-shine that often contains silicones and chemicals that might damage the leather!
• Remember that if you do not clean/rub your leather before storage, it can harden and actually crack the next time you use them - especially if they were quickly dried after being wet. Remember silicone oil for the rubber-rim around the lower part.

Socks
Many buys boots for ~€300/$500, but choose to use their ordinary socks. It´s like investing in a brand new and expensive car but buying the cheapest tires for it. It works, but you will never get to use it to the full extent! What they tend to also forget, is that if they invest in really good socks - it will be cheaper in the long run, because good quality socks lasts. When you have battered your feet for some time, good socks is also one of the best relief when taking a break - like a soft hug you give your feet for a job well done. Especially if they have taken some serious beatin´ and/or being cold and wet!

My experience - the only material to use is wool!
Y? It is more or less the only material that still keeps you warm when moist/wet. Some researches even say that wool generates heat, as it gets more moist/wetter. However, even wool looses its ability to warm if 100% soaked in water – where it actually starts to cool instead. So the best of both worlds. In addition – wool has a build-in natural non-odor function due to anti-bacterial characteristics. So even though they at first might smell like a wet sheep after a hard days work, it only takes a minute before they are practically odorless (even after been used several days). Note that 100% wool looses its shape when wet, so often some degree of synthetic mixture is done to keep elasticity and prone to washing (40°C).

Two layers – whenever… but separate socks!
Y? First layer is very thin/close (with flat knit/seams + no cushion) and actually transports moisture away from the skin as a ultra-breathable extra skin layer. IN addition, since it often sits fairly tight on your feet - the movement that normally develop blisters because of the friction between your feet and the inside of the boot gets lost since that main friction is now between two layers of socks instead. :)

However, my own experience with socks that have “build in” dual layers tend to get folds that are hard to control/correct and can start irritations and/or even blisters during long walks/hikes.

MY Choice for first layer – Smartwool “Hiking liner crew”

The second layer of socks is to keep the transported moist from the first layer away from your foot and of course protect your skin from friction against the inside of your boot. Modern hiking-socks are also made to contain some cushing-effect for your feet in addition to the "friction" solution I just mentioned.

MY Choice for second layer – Smartwool “Trekking heavy crew” - for those heavy backpack-sessions or
Smartwool “Hiking medium crew” - for lighter hiking or just everyday walking in boots.

My story: I actually only used three (3) pairs of “hiking liner crew” and three (3) pairs of “hiking medium crew” during six months of military service abroad. If not used under extreme conditions, I changed every third/fourth day to keep washing frequency down. But never got any odor or visible wear/tear on any of those socks – and is still using them!

Smelly socks/sport-clothes
Also, if you prefer/have synthetic socks that you use and that starts to smell – let them soak somewhat in diluted (2-5%) Vinegar/dilute impure acetic acid (Ättika) about 30-40mins before putting them in your washer (also works with t-shirts and other training clothing)

Remember however that wearing boots for long periods of times can give you foot-problems of other kinds (fungus etc.) so try and let your feet out to breathe as often as you can.

Feet
Rubbing your feet with Vaseline
Y? If you walk in wet weather (or you have extensive foot sweat), even the best of socks will not be able to transport all the moist away from your foot. With wet toes that the starts to rub against each other – you most probably will get blisters between your toes. By putting a layer of Vaseline between your toes (and sometimes the whole foot) you will prevent/extend the time until your feet get the extra beating.

It is said to keep your feet warmer during cold weather conditions as well (thicker coating of your whole feet under socks) but I have not tried it myself.

Taping your feet as extraordinary measure
Y? When you know that you literally will walk that extra mile, taping your feet might be an option. Especially when doing a thing like  International Four Days Marches Nijmegen. There are several practices in how to do this. My version springs from two ideas: Less is more - as long as it does the job. Save on supply, since it is finite and you will most often run out when you need it the most.

I will get back with pictures on how I (and many of my trekking friends) do it - it´s all in the details!

My story: When walking the Nijmegen march the first time, I sprained my ancle the third day and went to the field-hospital. There I witnessed a soldier that thought that taping his whole sole would be the best protection. Instead it had generated that the skin under his whole foot had loosened... and now they had to take away the tape... and the skin came loose with it. Dare I say that even with painkillers - his scream proclaimed his mistake several times. Poor fella! (I finished the march the next day though)

Water blisters – bursting or not bursting
Y? Well, there is a main thing about keeping the blistering area clean and not get dirt/bacteria on the "new skin" if possible vs giving it room to dry out and/or quickly generate new skin/minimize the pain asap. Again something that you will probably hear several standard practices about. Well, these are my guideline

If it/they do not bother or hurt you - do not do anything. Period!

BUT, if they are swollen enough to start to hurt or bother you due to the need to walk on or want to "get it over with" - you need to take action!

Best option is if/when you have a hypodermic needle (new or sterilized with fire/alcohol). With it, you actually go in a millimeter OUTSIDE the blister-area and slide underneath the skin to the blister - quickly emptying it from fluid.
Y? Well, the skin will then reseal the entry, since the skin is flexible - not allowing dirt and/or bacteria into the blister area.

If you only got an ordinary needle - you enter the same way. But you need to "flex" the opening a little and apply slight pressure on the blister to squirt the fluid out (which can be unpleasant). Last option is Scalpel/point of a knife - where you still try and make a tiny hole on the edge of the blister.

The first hour after puncturing a blister can be somewhat hurtful due to the friction between the old and new skin - and some even manage to fill with fluid again. But don´t give up - ust rinse and repeat.

I the end - the old skin will start to feel hard/paper-like and the new skin will toughen out. You can then "open up" a little around to let fresh air in to speed up the process - but let the old skin hang on until it is do no protecting at all.

Note: Blood-blisters should always be kept "whole" as long as possible without intervention due to higher risk of infection.

And finally!!

Taking of – or not taking off your shoes during break?
Y? Well, while some claim that you should always let your feet get a rest by taking off your boots even during shorter stops others claim that you should only remove your boots when having a really long break (more than one hour or two).

I know that I might be mean to my feet - because I do only take my boots off during a break that I know will last for at least two hours, for the night or when entering a clean building.
Y? Well, even though I can relate to the close to euphoric sensation when "releasing" my feet after so and so many km:s of walking - my own empirical experience says that it is not worth it in the end.
Assume I have walked for about three hours straight (one hour is enough) and I take a break and remove my boots for 5-10mins break (standard rule). The nice feeling will push me to the very last second when I put my boots on again - making it something I (and most others) then do in haste. That generates a larger risk in folding the socks somewhere, get a small rock in, tighten the laces in a less good way etc.
In addition - releasing your feet after that will rush blood to your battered lower paws and make them swell. So when you actually put your boots on, your feet will be bigger and after a while of hiking and the feet reduced slightly - your sock correction and how you tightened you laces will be all wrong. Often without you noticing it = increase risk of blisters and uncomforted feet. By keeping your feet "locked in" and maybe even tighten the laces somewhat (not so it hurts), you minimize the factor of getting blisters.

My story: Last time I did the Nijmegen March (military-class) - I finished without having had ANY blister during the entire event. Sure, feet were really sore, ligaments, pelvis and back as well. But after ~147km in four days with loaded backpack on tarmac (mostly) - most people (that make it through) are! ;)

Enjoy and take good care of your feet and the equipment you use them with!